Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Sunscreen Fade Cream

By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Ingredients

%

Phase A

Water (deionized)
62.90

Phase B

Disodium EDTA
0.10

Phase C

Trolamine 99 NF (Ineos Oxide) (Triethanolamine)
0.60

Phase D

HallBrite OS USP (HallStar) (Ethylhexyl salicylate) [Octisalate]
5.00

HallBrite HS USP (HallStar) (Homosalate)
7.50

Neo Heliopan 303 (Symrise) (Octocrylene)
2.75

Polycrylene (HallStar) (Polyester-8)
3.00

Alkamuls SMO Unbl (Rhodia) (Sorbitan oleate)
0.40

Phase E

Neo Heliopan BB (Symrise) (Benzophenone-3) [Oxybenzone]
4.00

Parsol 1789 (DSM Nutritional)* (Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) [Avobenzone]
3.00

Phase F

Ganex V-220 (ISP) VP/Eicosene copolymer
1.00

Phase G

Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer (Noveon) (Carbomer)
0.20

Pemulen TR-1 Polymer (Noveon) (Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer)
0.25

Phase H

Glycerin [99.5%]
4.00

MikroKill COS (Arch Chemicals) (Phenoxyethanol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) chlorphenesin)
1.00

Phase I

MSS-500W (Kobo) (Silica)
2.00

Sodium metabisulfite (Mallinckrodt Baker, Inc./Tyco)
0.30

Eastman Hydroquinone, USP (Eastman)
2.00

0

Do not substitute.

Procedure

Add phase A to main vessel and start center-stir (prop) mixing. Disperse phase B in phase A, add phase C and continue mixing this water phase until completely clear and homogeneous. In a separate vessel, combine phase D and start heating with mixing to 50°C. Add phase E. When this oil phase is at 50°C, add phase F and stop heating. When fully dissolved, add phase G. When fully dispersed, with strong mixing (but without aeration), add the oil phase to the water phase. When the emulsion is fully formed (white and thickened; 20 minutes or longer, as necessary), switch to sweep mixing. Add premix of H and, when batch is again homogeneous, add phase I ingredients in order. When again homogeneous, replace any water lost during processing. Perform final quality assurance checks and package product.

Properties

(25°C): Appearance—Light yellow lotion; pH—5.9; Viscosity (Brookfield, Model RV, T-Bar D, 5, 20 & 100 rpm; cP)—19600, 5300 & 1600; Stability (45°C for two months; three freeze-thaw cycles): Passed.